The Henricus Secundus Panel
by Aldith Angharad St. George

This panel is based on a 13th century German altar cloth, one
that was probably used during Lent, as was much German whitework during
this period.The original is stitched on a semi-transparent linen, using
linen thread in a variety of "chained" stitches, and it depicts Pontius
Pilate ordering the arrest of Jesus?). It appealed to me because it
is unusual among German whitework:there are no dark outlines or counted
white fillings (as in Opus Teutonicum), and it has a drawn-thread background.
The design. Since I planned to use the finished panel as one
end of a table runner for my feast gear, it occurred to me that a depiction
of Pilate was in bad taste. I therefore changed the style of the crown
and added a dais to the throne, so that I could add HENRICUS SECUNDUS
to the dais, effectively changing the scene to Henry the Second sending
his knights to murder St. Thomas a Becket ("...will no one rid me of
this meddlesome priest?!"). This seemed to me to be, if not strictly
in good taste, in not-as-bad taste.
The design was drawn directly onto the ground fabric using a blue fabric
marker (the type that disappears in water). If I had wished to draw
the design in a period manner, I would have used charcoal.
The ground fabric.The ground fabric of the panel is semi-transparent
handkerchief linen, in a tabby weave. I had gotten it from the Herrschnerr's
catalogue about 10 years ago - Herrscherr's doesn't carry it anymore,
but Britex Fabrics in San Francisco sometimes carries it. Cotton batiste
and cotton organza are visually similar substitutes for handkerchief
linen.
The thread. The entire panel was worked with white DMC embroidery
floss, becauseI couldn't get the result I was after with the linen thread
I had available at the time I began the panel. (However, I have since
found a couple of varieties that would have worked better!) The outside
edge of the panel was worked with 3 strands of floss, the background
and the lettering with 1 strand, and the figures with 2 strands.
The stitches. Since the source did not give the names of specific
stitches that were used in the original panel, I had to determine the
stitches to use from the photograph in the book.
Running Stitch was used to outline the outside edges of all the figures
as well as the outside edge of the panel, prior to stitching them with
Closed Square Chain Stitch.
The eyes on all three figures were worked in Eyelet Stitch.
The border of the king's mantle is worked partly in Braid Stitch,
which I don't now believe is correct - the lower part of the mantle
edge is worked in Plait Stitch, which is much more period and looks
more correct. The ermine spots are worked in Detached Chain Stitch.
All the rest of the details on the figures are stitched in Chain Stitch.
The lettering on the dais is worked in Brick Stitch, counted over
2 threads.
The background. The outside edge of the panel and the figures
were worked first; the background was worked last. Every 4 threads were
cut and withdrawn (cut 4, leave 4) from both the warp and the weft,
leaving a grid of threads. This grid was whip-stitched from the back
(important!) with one strand of floss, in both directions.
Finishing. When the stitching was complete, the entire panel
was first soaked in water to remove the fabric marker, then washed with
Orvus Paste. (Orvus Paste is a pure soap that is ideal for washing delicate
fabrics, and it's available in many hardware stores, feed stores and
some art stores.) Once dry, the panel was pressed by placing it face
down on a thick white towel, then pressing it from the back with a warm
iron. Since the panel was worked in a frame, no blocking was necessary.
The completed panel is the first of three, to be stitched to a dark
blue linen table runner - dark blue will emphasize the whiteness of
linen, and show the stitching more clearly.

Original 13th C. piece.
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